Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Festival in Puno, Peru



Lake Titikaka and floating islands







The Death Road, from La Paz, Bolivia








Well today Eric, Danny Boy, Katie and I survived riding beat up old mountain bikes down the 'Death Road' leading out of Bolivia's capital, La Paz. We started at 4700m and ended at 1000m, over about 4 hours of riding. The first 24ish km were on the new and improved paved Death Road, while the last 47ish km were on the original dirt, rocky, narrow, steep, curvy, scary Death road. Many people have died on the road both biking and in vehicles. Just 2 months ago they openned the new road up to La Paz, so the original one is only used for bike tours and the occasional crazy cabbie. It was so steep, the road is literally carved into the side of a cliff. A bus went over the edge only 2 months ago, killing all 45 people. The road is dotted with crosses, rather eerie. But it was a beautiful sunny day, and we all went slow, and we all made it to the bottom, on the bike, via the road. We spent a while at a lovely resort for lunch where we went swimming. It was so cold at the top, but 3700m later, it was like a blow drier aimed right at our faces. We probably spent 4 hours in the saddle, I only blew one tire, but I can barely sit down now.

A few days ago we did a nice boat trip from Puno to the floating islands on Lake Titikaka, where Andean people still live. The lake is the highest navigable lake in the world, and huge, it took us 3 hours to drive along the side of it. The islands are made entirely of reeds, including their houses and boats. The islands are 4m thick, are in constant need of repair, as the bottom layers of reed rot quickly. It is a hard life for the people, baking out in the sun all day, and working constantly to keep themselves afloat. There is even an elementary school on the islands, 45 islands in all.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

The Andes



Dead Woman's Pass on the Inca Trail



Some ruins along the trial



Me and Danny Boy on the summit of Huayna Picchu



Machu Picchu





Yesterday I completed the 49km 4-day Inca Trail hike. It was absolutely amazing, the Andes are breathtaking. We hiked through deep valleys of steep green mountains, and climbed countless ancient rock stairs. The first day we covered about 16 kms, a nice easy warm up for the next day. The second day was very challenging as we passed through Dead Woman´s Pass, at 13,700 feet. The path was so steep up to the pass, and it was a challenge just to get a breath, the air sure is thin up there, all while toting a 13 Kg pack. The climb up turned out not to be the worst of it all, the descend back down the other side was even worse, so hard on the muscles. After making it to our lunch place, we rested up for the next pass that afternoon. We hiked for about 9 hours that day, ascending at least 1000m, then back down again just in the first pass. The third day was only half a day of hiking, but by then, my calves had seized up, and it was pretty tough going. We passed our third pass that day, and descended way down into a steep valley, my legs were quivering with exhaustion. The fourth day we got up at 4am to start the final leg to Machu Picchu, only a couple of hours. We passed through the Sun Gate and got our first glimps of the ruins at sunrise. We then spent the morning exploring the ruins and taking it all in. I was so spent I could barely move, but for some reason I decided to climb the huge mountain right behind Machu Picchu, Huayna Picchu. Only half an hour up to the top, but so steep I had to use my hands most of the way. The veiw was amazing at the top. By the time we descended my knee was numb, and swollen, and I had a nice nap next to a grazing alpaca on the grass in the middle of the ruins. The train and bus ride back to Cuzco was amazing as well, I managed to stay awake to enjoy it, through the steep valleys, along the river. My group was great, there were 12 of us, 2 guides, and 18 porters. The porters are all from local villages in the Andes. They sure make you feel like a slacker, each one carries up to 30Kg, they just strap the gear on to their backs with blankets, and walk in sandals. I even saw one porter carrying an older lady down the trail, she must have hurt herself. I was amazed most people don't carry their own stuff, they hire a porter, but Danielle and I toughed it out. I sure came to appreciate my gear, my boots were awesome, no blisters or pain at all, my pack was so comfortable, and I pretty much live in my merino wool shirts. The food on our hike was amazing as well, gourmet 3-course meels, which made it nice.

I am now speding a recovery day in Cuzco before the Brissards and I head to Puno tonight to meet up with Eric tomorrow. I decided to come home a week early to prepare a little better for my med school interview, so I leave in only 10 days now! I feel a bit gyped out of some vacation time, but I think it is for the best.